Foothill Roller Coaster

The next day we were back on the bikes and headed for our next destination.  We left Shimla and followed the route towards Sarahan.  We started dropping in elevation as we turned thru various switchbacks down towards the Sutlej River Valley.  As we descended from the heights of Shimla and the ridges, we also started dropping back into the heat at of the lower elevations. Near the river we were down to around 2600' of elevation.  We were back to over 100°F at the lower elevation.  In the meantime, I was having problem with my motorcycle. The clutch was slipping and I began to have difficulty coping with down shifting.  I was falling further behind the group by nearly a mile; Paul was sticking with me.  

Eventually, Paul and I caught up with the group that had pulled over to take a break.  I got the motorcycle over to the side of the road but could night find "Neutral" and the engine killed when I tried to park and dismount.  I waved over Damon and told him about the clutch. Also, I told him that I thought I better take a break and ride in the truck. I was having problems staying mentally focused. Feeling mentally overwhelmed. I thought I was getting dehydrated as well.  Better to take a rest now rather than end up in an accident! My main goal is to stay within my capability rather than try to fool myself or others.  The preference is to return home alive and uninjured!

Shimla to Sarahan

 Below is another partial, more detailed view of a section of this day's route as we descended towards the Sutlej River.  I spend a lot of my time turning, downshifting, riding the brakes and dealing with the never-ending.  Gads!  Another think I realized was that I preferred climbing since I did not have to deal with the constant acceleration that comes with coming down these long hills.  Always increasing speed while coming into turns!  

Detailed Partial 3D View. Mostly Descent Towards the River

Damon at first seemed doubtful about the motorcycle's clutch when I told him, but then he and Sanjay tried to ride it and realized that indeed, there was a problem with the adjustment.  Sanjay got out some wrenches and tightened in the tension.  They would take a look that evening and perhaps replace some pads. Sanjay then put on his helmet and started riding with the group.  I was very happy for the option to ride in the truck.  

I was happy to sit on the passenger side of the trick with Baloo.  I spent the next couple hours drinking water from the Camelback bladder and watching the scenery.

One of the interesting things I saw was that the mountainsides were covered with Apple Orchards. The individual trees were covered with nets to protect the trees from bird predation.  Also, I began to see bee hives.   I realized that when on the motorcycle, I had not dared to look at scenery.  All I could do was watch the road and the upcoming turns and traffic.  .Now that I did not have to deal with  the  maneuvering of the bike, I had a chance to take in the larger picture.  

Apple Trees Under Nets

Looking Down on One of the Switchbacks

Tight Quarters in a River Town

Baloo did not have the advantage of being able to squeeze between vehicles like the motorcycles.  So He struggled to keep up with them.  Nevertheless, he would catch up eventually. We caught the party in the next town not too long before they were done at the restaurant were they were taking a break.  The heat in the late afternoon was almost as intense as at Chandigarh had been and several of the party looked pretty exhausted.  But the ride wasn't over.  There was a climb ahead over the next 90 minutes to get up to the hotel at Sarahan.  

As we climbed, we passed through a number of damaged sections of road.  LANDSLIDES is a major problem in these steep foothills and often during the monsoon season, the saturated hills give way and release millions of tons of rock and soil and the roads are swept away.  The the Indians get out of the road (often much of them with shovels and buckets) and rebuild the roads, often on top of the buried road 5 to 10 feet underneath.  

In broken English Baloo told me that he lost his home and car to a landslide.  His wife and son survived but otherwise, they were wiped out and at home he now just has a small motorcycle and they live with his parents.

That is Our Road in the Distance

Collapsed Hill

At some point we started climbing steeper and steeper slopes and entered in Himachal-Pradesh a Tibetan district policed by the Indo-Tibetan Border Patrol which looked like a joint military police deal.  

Indo-Tibetan Border Patrol Area

We were reclimbing the terrain. At Sarahan the elevation was 7600 feet.  So, we'd regained most of the elevation we'd given away in the morning from Shimla.  At the hotel, I again was happy to 'crash'.  The ride in the truck had helped me stabilize myself. Still,  I was finding that I was also developing a serious sinus and inner-ear problem that would grow as a problem.  Several others were complaining about their noses, ears, etc. as well.  Charlie was developing a cough.  All the changes in barometric pressure was having an effect.  Like me, everyone headed to their rooms to get out of their motorcycle togs, clean up and lie down.  It turned out there was little hot water.  So judicious sponge baths were taken.  Also, I washed and rinsed out some clothing in the sink.  

Charlie and I discovered we had a 3rd roommate in the bathroom:

Next Morning:

After breakfast, Damon said it was going to be a shorter day and that people were free to walk down the road to visit the local Hindu Temple Dedicated to Durga/Kali. prior to our departure for Sangla.

Kali is a famously violent Goddess and held no attraction for me. Although no longer allowed legally, she still is offered human sacrifices that are done under the radar.  Old time religion. 

Besides my distaste for her, I was planning to be back on the motorcycle that morning and so was shepherding my energy. But Charlie was fascinated with the Hindu pantheon and so he went ahead and with several others, walked over to the temple. 

Kali: Not Everyone's Pick for a Girl Friend

If I were to pray to a Hindu god, it would be the Elephant-headed Ganesha.  A much more generous and interesting fellow.

Ganesha

I was feeling recovered enough to give the motorcycle another go.  The clutch had been adjusted and I wasn't ready to 'hang it up' and hide in the truck.  Around 10:30 we were all suited up and our helmets on, mounted on the motorcycles and we we were heading back down the hills (again) but only to about 5000' and then we would come back up to 8600'.  The destination was a "Camping" venue on a side valley (Baspa River).  This turned out to offer some dramatic views.  

Sarahan to Sangla

 

The Hindustan-Tibet Roads was a dramatic road system built by the British (Indian Labor)  in the 2nd half of the 19th century in order to tie India from the Gangetic Plains to Tibet.  Many laborers died in the construction of these cliff-hugging roads, originally no more than 8 foot wide.  Now they are a bit wider but not nearly enough, especially for two-way motorized travel.  

My Steed

Precarious Rest Spot

Looking Down the Road

And the View Up the Road

After many hairpin turns and squeezing by oncoming traffic, we finally arrived at a Camping venue.  The driveway down the the establishment was breathtakingly steep.  I looked down it and laughed out loud!  No Way would I be able to go down this steep 'Death Plunge'.  I looked at Sanjay and he grinned back and took the bike down the 400' plus chute.  It was all just loose gravel, rock shelves and sharp turns.  Thank God for Sanjay!  He took the bike down the hill with no spills.  Totally beyond my capacity at this point.  I rode down with Baloo and we both laughed and hooted at the loose mess; the 4x4 pickup was surefooted. But it was a very 'off-road' sort of experience.  No one else fell but later several individuals said that they had nearly tumbled.  

Charlie and I were back to sharing a large 'Tent' that also had an attached bathroom with toilet and shower.  The view from the tent platforms was spectacular, looking across the Baspa River valley.  In the far distance we got our first glimpse of the snow-capped mountain peaks of the high Himalayas.  I was told that we were only a few miles from the Chinese-Tibetan border.    

Old Man of the Mountains!

Fancy "Tents"

Sallva Pine Resort

Our evening meal and breakfast the next morning was in a large walled pavilion with a fabric roof.  So much of the stonework of this resort was impressive.  I imagine that a lot of workers worked to make this.  Labor is relatively cheap in India.  The poor don't have many options.  And it is obvious that tourism is a big income generator for these valleys.  Most of the tourists are middle class Indian.  But then there are some foreigners as well.  I'm guessing that the foreign guest are less than 15%.  Perhaps a lot less.

Morning:

Although I continued to deal with my congested sinuses and inner ear pressure, I felt relatively alright in the morning.  I could feel the altitude. This translates as a creeping sense of exhaustion.  But I'm familiar with this feeling from my previous years of mountain climbing back in the Western Hemisphere. 

I continued to husband my energy for the main efforts.  I was told that the ride in the afternoon was going to be going to be around 4-5 hours. Damon had reserved the morning for anyone who wanted to motorcycle further up the road to Chitkul, known as 'the last village in India' because of it's proximity to the Tibetan/Chinese border.  

Alternatively, three of us, Robin, Nigel and myself, elected to stay at the resort and walk down to the river.  Less strenuous and an alternative to sitting on the motorcycles.  I was glad to have gone for this lovely walk, surrounded by gigantic pines that lined the lovely river valley. At the river was a wooden bridge across the river. On the other side was a Shrine in a hushed glade.  A wonderful, peaceful alternative.   

A little after noon the group that had motored up to Chitkul returned.  It was a great view of the mountains they said.  Then we had lunch and headed out.  I let Sanjay take the bike up to the road and then I was back on and we had a long afternoon ahead of us.  Another descent to the main road and then a long ride along the highway and before more climbing on the sides of the foothills.

Sangla to Kapla

The rapid changes in elevation continued to be play havoc with sinus and inner ears!  Dropping from Sangla down to Karchaum at 6000' and then up to Kalpa at 10,000'. we descended and climbed.  On the way to Kalpa we stopped at the village of Reckong Peo,  where we stopped to apply for the Inner-line Permits that would allow us to enter Spiti Valley.  As foreigners, we had to go thru a period of waiting at an office where our passports and visas were reviewed, individual photos taken, and additional documents generated.  

Inner-Line Document

After a long time we were finally able to get back on the motorcycles and climb, climb, climb up a series of switchbacks to a mountain top 5 story hotel (No elevator within!).  It was an hand built family owned business.  Very nicely done.  Mixes of wood. Some obviously reused but blended together into a very nice manner. A homemade feel but still, elegant in it's own way.  Charlie and I were back in a 3rd floor room.  A good set up beds, bathroom and toilet with hot water!  

Charlie's throat and sinus's were playing havoc and he was fairly devastated.  He needed rest and sleep!   And of course, I was feeling very weary from the increasing elevation and from the cummulative efforts of the last 4 days.  We were all played out.

Happily, we were to stay in Kalpa for two days in order to both rest/recover as well as acclimate to the higher altitude.  

There was a library on the 5th floor with easy chairs as well as a balcony looking out and up to the High Himalaya.  The mountain named Kinaur Kailash loomed to the east. This is 20,000' and the home of the god, Shiva.  An incredible set of mountains caught the light of the setting sun.

Mad Dogs and Englishmen

 Tuesday Morning, June 11th

After having a buffet breakfast at the Hotel restaurant, we all brought our luggage down the the lobby and our bags were loaded in the back of the truck, a Mahindra Bolero Camper.  I'll write more about the truck later.  

At 9:30 the temperatures were already around 90°F and I was in my full protective motorcycle suit of pants, jacket, gloves and helmet.  Toasty!  Damon let me get on the Himalayan and drive down to the end of the parking lot and back.  This was my first and only experience on this unfamiliar machine and upright position.  This before departing with our seven person group.

Damon took the lead and we were off and blended from the parking lot into the urban traffic.!

All I can say was that over the next couple hours I went thru an intense period of adjustment.  I was quickly near the back of our group with Paul as we moved slowly and deliberately thru the congested streets of Chandigarh.  

Keep in mind, that the traffic is very tight and people are constantly merging and departing from the main groups of cars, trucks, tuk-tuk's, motorcycles, buses, bicycles and pedestrians.  We dealt both with stop lights as well as traffic circles..  As any former British colony, the traffic in India proceeds on the LEFT rather than the RIGHT side of the road.  Motorcycles usually are weaving between the other vehicles and our group was no exception. When traffic stopped, we often were making our way forward between other stationary vehicle.    

My main strategy as I was accumulating experience was to stay close to my fellow motorcyclist in front of me, study my rearview mirror, and be aware of what was happening all around (situational awareness).  Although I was not familiar with traveling on a motorcycle in urban environments, I have traveled with a loaded touring bicycle in Ireland, India and England (including downtown London!) so I was not too flustered.  Just going with the flow!  No time to reflect.  Just be aware and move smoothly and deliberately. Other drivers cut across traffic flows. Nothing to be done about these but to accommodate. Just make no sudden moves whilst avoiding collisions. No time for anger. Just let the flow happen and stay out of trouble.  A crazy organic dance floor.  

This Video is fairly representative of what Indian Urban Traffic can be like.

Another representative video is HERE.

I honestly don't recall much from the first two hours other than various snatches.  My main goal was to just stay out of trouble.  Gradually, over the next 90 minutes, we gradually worked our way out of the stop-and-go and broke out into two and four lane roads where the traffic moved at around 25-40 mph.  This was still heavy traffic but it was flowing.  I was so unused to motorcycling in heavy traffic! So even when things were moving more freely I continued to stay focused on the road and traffic, even while moving.  Also, I was adjusting to constant curving roads, something I'm not much exposed to back home.  Boy, was I out of my depth!  Nevertheless, I was coping and accumulating lots of experience within a compressed period of time!  While navigating all the curves and switchbacks, we were climbing up and up.

Along the way we made several stops for food and then a mid-day meal.  I can't remember much except that I was quite thirsty much of the day and that we were breathing exhaust fumes.  Also, my water bladder didn't work as I had hoped. The water tube could not easily make the turn within my helmet and so I could only draw water when we were stopped (seldom) and I could fish the tube into my mouth.  For much of the day I was experiencing 'Cotton Mouth' and I definitely was dehydrating in the heat. 

After gaining over 6000 feet of altitude gain, we made it to our first hotel in Shimla at 8000' and I recall trudging to my room, stripping off my motorcycle gear, taking a shower and then laying down and dozing off.  My roommate was Charlie we talked about the crazy day.  One other thing I noted was that with the altitude gain, the heat of the plains was less.  

Shimla was a former British "Hill Station" where the British administrators and their family's would travel to during the hot months in India.  Many British succumbed to the temperatures in the 18th and 19th century from the heat.  The churchyards were filled with the British who died because they could not adjust to the heat.  The phrase "Mad Dogs and Englishmen Go Out in the Mid-day Sun" was a phrase credited to Rudyard Kipling.  Noel Coward came up with a song build around the phrase:

"In tropical climes there are certain times of day
When all the citizens retire to tear their clothes off and perspire.
It's one of the rules that the greatest fools obey,
Because the sun is much too sultry
And one must avoid its ultry-violet ray.
The natives grieve when the white men leave their huts,
Because they're obviously, definitely nuts!

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun,
The Japanese don´t care to, the Chinese wouldn´t dare to,
Hindus and Argentines sleep firmly from twelve to one
But Englishmen detest-a siesta.
In the Philippines they have lovely screens to protect you from the glare.
In the Malay States, there are hats like plates which the Britishers won't wear.
At twelve noon the natives swoon and no further work is done,

But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

It's such a surprise for the Eastern eyes to see,
that though the English are effete, they're quite impervious to heat,
When the white man rides every native hides in glee,
Because the simple creatures hope he will impale his solar topee on a tree.
It seems such a shame when the English claim the earth,
They give rise to such hilarity and mirth.
Ha ha ha ha hoo hoo hoo hoo hee hee hee hee ......
Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

The toughest Burmese bandit can never understand it.
In Rangoon the heat of noon is just what the natives shun,
They put their Scotch or Rye down, and lie down.
In a jungle town where the sun beats down to the rage of man and beast
The English garb of the English sahib merely gets a bit more creased.
In Bangkok at twelve o'clock they foam at the mouth and run,
But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.
The smallest Malay rabbit deplores this foolish habit.
In Hong Kong they strike a gong and fire off a noonday gun,
To reprimand each inmate who's in late.
In the mangrove swamps where the python romps
there is peace from twelve till two.
Even caribous lie around and snooze, for there's nothing else to do.
In Bengal to move at all is seldom ever done,
But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun."

When bicycling in India in 2013 I learning to stay out of the sun in the middle of the day.  But on this visit I'm keeping "bad company"......

Chandigarh to Shimla Day 1

Point-by-Point Google Map is Here.

Suffice it to say, I was totally exhausted by the heat, changes in altitude and the stress of dealing with it all.  Although my sleep was very unsettled (still dealing with jet lag), I pretty much collapsed into bed that night.  Ach!

Chandagarh

 Arriving In Chandigarh

After about 7 weeks of anticipation, I departed the USA and arrived 26 hours later in Chandigarh, in the Punjab region of northern India. My arrival on Sunday morning was after a delayed flight thru Amsterdam and then Mumbai and 26 hours of travel, several passages thru security and two deplanings for mechanical problems on both Delta and Air India.  Sheesh!  

As I had anticipated, the temperature in Chandigarh was around 110°F. I'd been watching the heatwave that had been hitting India over the previous weeks and so knew what to expect.  Nevertheless, the heat hit me in the face when I stopped outside the airport.   Lovely!  

Heatwave Headlines for New Delhi

Happily, I arrived one day early.  I like to have time buffers coming and going, especially from challenging places such as India.  The challenges are many but one is the major time difference.  I was now 10.5 hours ahead of Wisconsin!  This time shift takes some getting used to!

I took a taxi to the 3-star hotel, GK International.  This was the arranged starting point for the motorcycle tour.  After checking in, I got to me room and immediately collapsed into  bed.  There was a good overhead fan running overhead.  Air conditioning was week but with good air circulation, I was comfortable.

Hotel GK International, Chandigarh

Pretty Nice Room!

I got up in the late afternoon and headed out to the local market and purchased some cola.  The temps had dropped below 100° but it was still toasty.  Back at the hotel I met up with Damen.  The other participants would start arriving tomorrow, Monday.    

Back in my room, I had good wi-fi and so caught up with news and looked at maps and the upcoming 12 day itinerary.

The Overall Two Week Route
You can open a point-by-point Google Maps version of the route HERE

The Route stared by taking us north out of Chandigarh and gradually climbing out of the Punjab plain and into the foothills of the Himalaya's.  There were two rest days scheduled into the itinerary and so I calculated eleven days of travel.  

The Daily Segments:

Chandigarh to Shimla

Shimla to Sarahan

Sarahan to Sangla (Rest Day)

Sagla to Kalpa

Kalpa to Tabo (up River Sutlej with a major stop at Jangi Police Post to register with the military police)

Tabo to Kibber

Kibber to Losar

Losar to Manali (Rest Day)

Manali to Shoja

Shoja to Chail

Chail to Chandigarh

You can look up individual towns on Google. I think all of these are in the Indian state of

Himachal Pradesh. ,

As it would become very apparent to me during the next two weeks, this trip was not about linear distances.  Rather the day was generally characterized by the intensity of the climbing/descending and the difficulty of the terrain.   In the United States, on our highly engineered roads, we can cover many 100s of miles, when traveling in motorized vehicles.  As I wrote earlier, I had previously bicycled in Western India in 2013.  But in the mountainous regions of Northern India, with narrow two lane roads and often heavy traffic, this was a different sort of experience.  Also, I will later write about the experience of navigating at high altitudes of 10,000 to 16,000 feet of altitude.  This an additional source of challenge and stress.

During the ride there would be arranged housing for each evening.  Also, there would be periodic pauses so we would be able to take in water and food and for time to catch one's breath.

Years ago, Blazing Trails had it's own fleet of Royal Enfield motorcycles. At one time there were simultaneous groups going out on various tour routes in India (and also South Africa). But after COVID, the firm's size was apparently somewhat diminished.  They also started running into permitting problems for motorcycles in various regions of the country. India is famous for bureaucracy. So, it began to made more sense to rent regional motorcycle that were on top of the permitting process..  Blazing Saddles had arrangements to have the bikes delivered to the starting point by the rental firm. The firm also provided a mechanic as well as a 'chase' vehicle and driver. This vehicle was there in order to carry luggage of the riders as well as spare wheels and repair gear..  

On Monday in the late afternoon I met the other riders and staff:  Here is a list.

Damen (Owner and Lead Guide) British Age 61

Lynn (2nd guide) British Age 61

Paul  (Medic) British Age 53

Sanjay (Motorcycle Mechanic) Indian Age 40?

Baloo (Truck Driver and Mechanic) Indian Age 43

Neil (client) British Age 51

Charlie (client) British Age 47

Robin (client) Australian Age 65

Myself (client) American Age 72

All the other folks had many decades of motorcycling experience.  I was the oldest and the least experienced.  Robin had been riding motorcycles since age 15 so had 5 decades on bikes.  Damen had been racing and doing adventure riding for 3-4 decades. Lynn was very experienced at adventure cycling all over the world.  Charlie and Neil both had plenty of riding experience from back in England.   Paul was a motorcycle first responder EMT from south London and so was used to riding on a motorcycle thru congested city traffic on his way to individuals in trouble including vehicle accidents, some involving cyclists.   Sanjay was a highly competent mechanic and rider.

Obviously, this group was light with only 4 paying clients!  This ratio of staff to client was to my personal advantage for that I was grateful.  I think they could easily have supported eight clients but were were all they had.  I wondered how this could be profitable for the firm.   

In the early evening Damon sat us down to explain the rules of the road.

He would lead the group and be at it's head. He had ridden this route numerous times and knew it well.  Lynn would vary in her location in the group so to make sure that everyone was together and on route.  Paul, as medic, would always be at the back of the group as the Sweep so could quickly be there if anyone was down or injured.  Baloo & Sanjay with the truck would by necessity be further behind and depending on traffic, might be at some distance.

Damon emphasized the need to stick close together the next morning as we slowly got out of the heavily congested city traffic.  Once we were out the thick of it we would need to try to stick together and not be afraid to "overtake" (pass) when the opportunity was there.  

We were responsible for our own driving and avoiding accidents.  Watch out of pedestrians and cattle.  Use the horn to communicate with all the rest of traffic surrounding you.  People needed to know that you were there (often in their blind spots) so we should not hesitate to honk the horn.  Each of us was responsible financially for any damages to the motorcycle or any vehicle we might collide with. Damages to the bikes would be between the rider and the rental company!  If there was an accident, Damon, Lynn and Paul would be there to intervene. If they told you to leave, do so. They would negotiate with other parties and/or police.  

Sounded reasonable.    Then we had dinner and got to know one another.

Later in the evening, the motorcycles arrived by a large straight frame truck and were unloaded and lined up in front of the hotel.  I went out in the evening heat and took a look at the machines prior to retiring for the night.

The Fleet of Royal Enfield Himalayan's

For anyone who might be interested, Royal Enfield was originally a British Brand.  In the early 1950s the English company licensed an Indian Company, Madras Motors to make copies of the RE "Bullet", a 350 cc model which continues to be produced (updated somewhat).  The tooling from the British company was eventually sold and shipped to the Indian company.

Royal Enfield has grown over the years to over a billion $ company and makes over 850,000 machines a year.  Their motorcycles are very popular all over the world (not so much in the USA) are are well respected for making reliable, economical machines.  The Himalayan is a design that has been very popular as an entry-level Adventure motorcycle.  With a one-cylinder motor, 411cc's  with high torque, it is very good at getting up steep angled roads.  A bit of a 'Tractor', it is not a powerful or very fast bike.  Rather, it is durable and strong at the slower speeds and is designed to handle the poor roads of India as well as gravel and rock surfaces.  

    The Himalayan would be sorely pressed to keep up with road touring bikes made by BMW, Harley or Honda. While it can get up to 65 mph, it's best cruising speed really doesn't get much above 55 mph. But it is well respected for the dual-sport adventure segment of the market, especially at the lower price point.  You can spend $25,000 for a BMW  R1250 or buy a Himalayan for under $5500.  

BMW R1250 Dual Sport

A Surprising Opportunity to See the High Himalayas of India   

After my December 2023 Brazil Trip, I was contemplating future excursions.  I had thought of visiting Northern Japan.  Also, a solo bike ride in Western France.  Mostly I dithered.  At this particular stage in my life I was tired of solo bicycle and road trips but not quite ready for your typical group excursion.

In Early April I happened to receive a broadcast email from "Blazing Trails", a British-based company, for an Adventure Motorcycle Trip in the Himalayas of India.  This caught my imagination! 

Frankly, I am not much of a motorcyclist.  When I was 17 in the late 1960s I had wanted to buy a small Honda 360CB Motorcycle but my father said absolutely not! He knew that a teenager on a motorcycle was a bad combination.    So I set that idea aside (and instead was soon hitchhiking across the USA!).  For the next 40 years I honored my father's skepticism regarding motorcycle.  I gradually came to realize how the human body is so vulnerable and unprotected on a motorcycle. Like sitting on the hood of a car!  

But at age 60 I did finally turned back to the subject and bought the nearly the same Honda model I had hankered after back in the late 1960 and this I learned to ride.  After a previous visit to India, I'd seen the utility of a motorcycle for exploration.    For the following  decade I have periodically taken conservative rides on that original bike as well as a subsequent, smaller Honda.

1976 Honda 360cc

On these Hondas I would go out on quiet backcountry roads in Western Wisconsin.   This has been a pleasant and 'low risk' alternative that I've mixed with my bicycling activities.   With a 'Milk Crate' on the back of the motorcycle I've periodically driven up to New Richmond Wisconsin to pick up some groceries.   In warm afternoons it has been pleasant to ride and feel the breeze in my face as I travel over the gentle Wisconsin rural landscape.

2006 Honda Rebel 250cc

I had never thought of taking overnight rides on the motorcycle.  I've done plenty of that sort of traveling via my many bicycle tours (both in North America and overseas) and the motorcycle just didn't inspire me to a multiday trip.   

But when I visualized the possibility of seeing the Himalayas from the seat of a motorcycle.....THAT caught my imagination.  

I got on SKYPE and called the lead guide and owner of the firm in England and we had a good conversation.  I explained to Damen that my motorcycling experience was fairly light.  I added that I'd  taken a Solo Bicycle Tour in Western India in 2013 and also had a background  in mountaineering and so I was usually game for anything.  However, I wasn't sure if I would be able to handle the technical challenges of motorcycling in varied terrain in India, especially with dealing with the chaotic traffic of India..  Also, I was 72 and while fit for my age, I was old!

Solo Bike Tour, Western India 2013, Age 60

Damen said he was 61 himself. He assured me that based on my background he was confident that I would be able to handle this project and if at some point I did encounter problems, I could catch a ride in the support vehicle and the staff mechanic could ride the motorcycle thru the more difficult sections of the ride.  With the knowledge of that option, I decided to go forward and wire the money to Britain.  I was committed!   I would be flying to India on June 7th and the trip would begin in Chandigarh, Northern India on the morning of June 11th.  

Preparations:

Once I was confident that the commitment had been made and that the money had been transferred, I went ahead and booked the flights to the Chandigarh in Punjab, Northern India.  I decided that I would need a full-face helmet to protect my face and lower jaw and purchased that as well as   ankle-high motorcycle boots and protective pants.  I already had a 'summer weight' yellow jacket that had mesh panels to allow plenty of air flow.  Since I knew it was going to be important to stay hydrated I bought a small pack with a 2 liter water bladder with a hose to suck on.

After these purchases, I started riding my little Honda motorcycle 4-5 times a week, trying to accumulate more hours.  The Honda Rebel 250 cc is a small 'Cruiser'.  In addition, I ventured into the Minneapolis-St.Paul metro area in order to get used to riding in an urban environment.  Also, I stopped at the only nearby Royal-Enfield dealer in Minneapolis and straddled a Himalayan cycle.  This felt entirely different in geometry from my Honda.  

Royal Enfield Himalayan 411 cc

I was glad to spend a bit of time sitting on this still machine.  It gave me an opportunity to imagine and viscerally place this new, unfamiliar posture in the back of my mind.  I figured that I would be spending nearly two weeks in this different configuration and so wanted to imagine it.

Honda Rebel 250cc

Specifically, the Himalayan's seat is 31.5 inches high.  This compares to 26.5 inch seat height for the Honda Rebel.  The Adventure dual-sport motorcycle needs to have more ground clearance to deal with rough road surfaces.  So the rider must sit higher on the bike but still be able to get his feet down on the ground when coming to a stop.  My inseam is 31 inches and so I was just able to put my foot down on ground when pausing in traffic. Obviously, this is not a problem on my lower Honda. 

So, this would be a big adjustment.  More to come!