The Third and Final Act. No Ancestors Included.

Wednesday, April 26th

Having taken notes on the Crotty/Naughton investigations the evening before, I was relaxed in my mind.  As I had written at the beginning, I had front-loaded my investigations and focused my energies in the first half of the trip.  Now, I felt it was time to stop and let those investigations rest and settle in my mind.

I sat at a picnic table at the Corofin Hostel and thought about the coming week.  Jude had warned me that the upcoming weekend was a "Bank Holiday" and as a result, finding housing, especially in Dublin near the airport would be especially challenging. People would be booking for 3-4 days in the city, extending into Monday and even Tuesday. Rain always is threatening in Ireland and I thought about that.  And housing seemed fairly dear everywhere anyway. I think there is a surge of "Post-COVID" travelers in Ireland.  I had felt fortunate to find camping available in Corofin.  But I did not relish either having to search for housing at an unfamiliar B&B in the Dublin area.  I hoped to find a hostel with a dorm in a smaller town or village.  

The End of Small Town Hostels?

Currently, in Ireland the Dorm Model, where there are typically six bunks to a room, seems to have faded significantly as I found both in New Ross and then again in Dingle. COVID seems to have pressed the owners of facilities in Ireland to change toward to a new model. More renting of rooms to families or groups and no longer catering to the individual travelers. Jude said that Hosteling is Dead. I'm not sure if that's true, but it has certainly been challenged. I can understand how he might feel that way.

The smaller family-owned hostels had already been battered earlier prior to COVID, by previous events.  The Great Global Financial Collapse of 2008 had hit the hospitality industry hard. Many foreign visitors stayed away from travel as a result.  Then again, in 2013, the European Financial crisis struck and especially put the screws on the financially challenged countries of Portugal Ireland, , Italy Greece and Spain (The "PIIGS").  Travel was curtailed and Ireland's economy particularly ground to a near halt.  Terrible.  Each time I visited Ireland over that decade I would often find myself in a dorm with six bunks and I was the only resident. Sometimes I seemed like the sole traveler.  This low attendance was not good for the income of the establishments. Finally, The COVID Epidemic was the nail in the coffin and closed a number of "Mom and Pop" hostels as well as small B&Bs.  This was especially true for those establishments that were indebted or with a low cash reserve. 

Add to the above the external shocks, there has been another tendency at work. There has been gradual trend away from the bicycle touring and backpacking that peaked around the decade of 1970-1980. These days I rarely run into younger bicycle tourists nor backpackers. The greater preponderance of bike tourists seemed to be retiree's such as Jean Pierre and Chandal.  The young seemed more inclined to arrive at the hostel by bus or car.  They were often more interested in catching music or drinking/party venues rather than athletic pursuits. And with this has been an increase in amenities that the Smaller Rural and Small Town Hostels can't easily provide. Many are looking for "Poshtels" It's a different generation.  And so it goes.   

But I can not generalize about the rest of the world.  My range is limited.  I have a friend my age, Cindi, who is currently walking the 500 mile Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage and has been staying at pilgrimage "Albergues" which are essentially hostels of the dormitory model (although you can usually rent a private room for additional cost).    

Example of a Camino de Santiago Albergue Dormitory

Also, it is my impression the urban hostels have the advantage over rural hostel of offering economical housing for the young person who wants to experience a big city and an exciting nightlife while on a limited budget. I have used these Urban Hostels as points of transition near international airports such as in Dublin, Copenhagen, London or Manchester.  But my goal is to get out of urban environments fairly quickly and out into the countryside. 

Few Americans? 

For a long time I've noted that as individuals or young couples, Americans are few and far between, especially in the smaller town hostels in Ireland, Scotland and the UK.  This is in contrast to continental Europeans who are historically more comfortable with the model. My general impression is that Americans usually travel in groups and are more likely to use B&Bs with their own individual rooms. More comparable to a motel back home.  They cling to privacy which sort of defeats the idea of travel as a way to expand your experience of the world.  I think this is a bit of a shame since it limits Americans in terms of their opportunity for meeting other travelers. And vice-a-versa.  Over the years, I am often the only American at a hostel. 

Going to Doolin:

I recalled going on my first bicycle tour in Ireland in 2001. I was 49 year old and this was my first overseas bike tour.. I flew into Shannon Airport near Limerick, and took a taxi with my luggage including a big bike box, to a hostel at the town of Six-Mile Bridge. I stayed overnight at the Jamaica Inn Hostel, assembled my bike, and then rode off the next day on my first international cycle adventure along the western areas of Ireland including Counties Clare and Galway and Mayo.  I came back to the Jamaica Inn repeatedly in subsequent visits.  Sadly, it is no longer in business. A victim of the waves of the stresses I described above.

Near the Cliffs of Moher, I had stayed in that 2001 trip at the Aille River Hostel in Doolin and had liked it very much.  I wondered if it was still running.  At the picnic table I pulled out the phone and checked online and found that it still was in business and so I made a call.  A woman, Leidi, answered the phone.  "Do you have any dorm rooms available?" For tonight? Yes they did. But later in the week and over the weekend they were booked up. But there was camping also available.  Great!  I booked a room and had a plan in my mind.

Perhaps I could stay there for the next while and then figure out how I might transition back to Dublin for my flight out the next Wednesday morning.  

Doolin is well known for Traditional Irish Music. If that is your taste, This Is The Place For You! There are a number of music venues up and down the street of this little village. Personally, I have a number of Irish music CDs and also DVDs of Ireland videos.  Also a bookshelf with a number of Irish-related books.  There is even a celli band in St. Paul, Minnesota called, oddly enough, O'Rourke's Feast. This band is headed by Paddy O'Brien who is the Ireland's most famous button accordion musicians and has a great knowledge of many thousands of obscure tunes.  A human repository. Paddy married a woman author from Minnesota and lives there!  I've meet Paddy several times and contributed financially to a "Kickstart" project he did to preserve on CD all the tunes that were bouncing around in his head.  Quite the job.     

Still, I am only good for about 90 minutes of Irish reels and jigs.  Then my eyes start to glaze over and I'm looking for the door!  So, my going to Doolin is not for the music.  Rather, I'm looking for a quiet and familiar harbor to park myself.  

So, I was pleased to find that Aille River Hostel was still running.  My recollection of the place in 2001 was pleasant and I looked forward to returning after 22 years.  Below are a few images from that earlier visit.

Old Slides of the Hostel in 2001

Aille River Promotional Literature

My 1978 Bicycle Posed in Front of the Cliffs of Moher in 2001

From Corofin I drove up the road and thru the town of Lahinch and further north, passing the visitor parking lot for the Cliffs and on to Doolin.  There, I found the hostel and parked in the back parking lot.  The hostel looked somewhat the same, but different.  Indeed, Doolin had changed as well in the last 22 years, having more pubs and eateries that have enlarged their footprints.  More RV camping!    

In spite of the financial challenges of the last two decades, Ireland continues to make incremental progress.  One of the things one notice is more and larger homes. The landscape has become more cluttered with homes.  Although this may disappoint the tourist, this is for the good for the Irish population.  Moving into larger, warmer and brighter homes is the right of every family and I am glad that they have more personal room.  The winters in Ireland are long, dark and wet.  Good to have some warm, dry and open space.  

Only later when referring back to old photos from my previous visit, was I able to discern that the Hostel had grown physically. Maybe a 30-40% increase in capacity.. There was some massive rock work added on the portion facing the river as well as an addition to the front for extra dining table as well as an office.  But it was all very attractively done and the owner, Robert, had done much of the work himself or contracted it.

When I checked in at the hostel, I was able to get a dorm bunk for the night. But then I would have to go back to tenting. Still, this was fine since I still had access to the kitchen, toilets and shower. I had a favorite spot in the dining room on a padded pew along the wall with a power plug for my little Chromebook. I could sit there and write in my journal, update my blog 

Lingering in Doolin

For the next five days, thru to Tuesday morning, I stayed at the Aille River Hostel. Each day I would spend time writing and reading and chatting with folks.  Also, I took several hikes. One hike was towards the Cliffs. The other solo walk was down to the seashore.  

I was content to have good company and a cozy spot. Like an old dog by the fire.  During meal times I would put away my writing materials and make sure I was not taking up space  and displacing family groups seeking a spot to sit down for dinner.  There were a number of families coming thru (especially French) with small children. Several groups of couples were also on holiday.  During this time I had a number of very pleasant conversations with several individuals and in more than a few instances I would give them my card and invite them to visit me in the upper midwest of the USA. I'd be happy to drive them around and help them familiarize and acclimate to life there. I have taken people out to the West (Big Horn mountains and Mount Rushmore) or to Chicago to see a big American City.  As a single guy with time on my hands, I am glad to play the host.  It has given me satisfaction to enlarge mutual understanding between peoples.  Really.

Inviting Others to America; Overcoming Mutual Misconceptions

Many Europeans have not visited the USA other than perhaps the obvious sites such as New York, Boston, Los Angeles and perhaps one or two national parks.  Without knowing anyone in America, they are often forced to do the Tourist Thing and never have access to an 'inside' look at the USA.  I have in the past invited numerous people to come.  And I've had several visitors take me up on these invitations and have come to visit.  I've taken great pleasure in showing them America at the normal level.  This has given them a truer sense of the place and helped them see past the cliche's of  television or the movies.  Visitors, when they come to the USA, are often overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the place.  It is so big they have problems digesting it. Where to go? What are we looking at?  A local friend and guide makes it so much easier, more economical and memorable. 

Most Europeans experience America vicariously thru the deluge of news and media that originates from Hollywood and our media organizations. But these are distortions.  Nevertheless, they at least have some sort of conception of America. Alternatively, Americans don't often visit other countries since America is so large, they don't feel the need to go outside their borders. There is so much to do in North America. Usually their knowledge of other country's histories, politics or cultures are vague or non-existent. We're ignorant.   If Americans do venture out of North America, they may head for their own set of obvious destinations.  Paris, Rome, London. Perhaps visit some castles. Take a cruise down the Danube.  But these are not the true Italy, France, Germany nor Britain. They're just bustling cities. Or heavily visited tourist venues. Or scenes from the railing of a cruise ship.  It's like visiting Dallas and thinking you've been to Texas!  Not really. You've just visited a big sprawling American City.

One of the advantages of bicycle touring is that you are forced to meet people. It is hard to cordon yourself off when on a bike. People see you with your luggage and often someone will ask where are you from and where are you going. That's not going to happen when you're driving a car!. Over the last two decades this has been my favorite way to get closer to the local communities that I pass through. Countless spontaneous conversations and with opportunities to learn about the place where your standing.  For instance I've visited Ireland seven times. Four of these visits were by bicycle. Also by car as I am now.  I am grateful for the times I have been able to enjoy meeting the Irish people while on my bicycle.  

When traveling, one of the other things I'm mindful of is keeping the costs of my visit at an economical level.  The first visit to a country is an introduction and a Learning Experience To Build On.  If the first visit costs too much, you'll be reluctant to come again because of the initial hole left in you wallet. When bicycling and hosteling, the costs are considerably less than if your renting a car and staying at hotels or B&B's.  So, in addition to the opportunity to meet more people, travel as a slower pace, and get exercise, you're also saving money.  Win, Win, Win, Win.... 

Tuesday and Wednesday, May 2nd and 3rd

Departure for Home:

After staying at Aille River Hostel for five nights, I packed up the tent and camper gear and pulled out of Doolin on Tuesday morning.  I had decided I would return the car to Hertz that evening and then wait at the airport in the terminal overnight for my departure the next morning (Departure at 8:50 AM). Rather than try to find housing in Dublin area and be rising at 4:00 AM, I would just keep an inflatable pillow in my carry-on luggage so that I could doze my way thru the night, lying my head down somewhere. 

On the way back to Dublin, I took a leisurely pace.  No rush to get to the airport!  I stopped at Corofin and stopped in at the Hostel and found Jude and informed him about the "Nortons" who were not of a County Clare name, having originally been Naughtons.  Really? He asked.  I told him to do a Wikipedia search and he would see that the Norton conversion in America was not at all unusual. I offered this to him to add to his knowledge of the local lore and he seemed to have appreciated this little nugget.  

After that, I popped over to the Heritage Center and spoke for a few minutes with the Genealogist, Antoinette.  I shared with her what I had learned both at the burial ground west of Cross as well as the discussion I had with Elizabeth who's mother was a Naughton.  She and I will be in touch by email in the next month or so as I organize the information.  She will be doing some extra work to confirm some of the information I and my sister and another relative have been doing back in the USA.  Hopefully we can come to some definite names and certainty regarding the names and basic details for ancestors reaching back into the late 1700s.  

Round Tower Stub

Kilnaboy Church

Continuing east, I pulled the car over at an old ruins at Kilnaboy and walked thru the an old church ruins and surrounding graves. I admired the stub of another old Round Tower.  This was the site of a significant shrine and monastery from the early 12th century. A fertility "Sheela"  is on the wall of the church.  These 'Architectural Grotesques'  come from pagan times and were incorporated into the Christian Iconography in some of these older European church ruins. I write fertility but that's just one theory as to Sheela's meanings... I don't seem to see phallic symbols but the female genitalia are up on the church wall which is an interesting.  Makes a fella think.  

Further down the road, I entered to major town of Ennis which has a population of over 25,000. The biggest town in Clare and and I stopped at the Clare Museum and spent 30 minutes there. I carry a lot of Irish History in my head and I didn't see much there that I didn't already know.  Good for the school groups and folks who are not familiar with Irish history. I didn't catch a lot of items that caught my attention.  Other than a very nice presentation of facts, not much to gain.  So I scanned thru it fairly fast.   

County Clare Museum

One item I saw that did catch my eye was about the number of Holy Wells in Clare.  Forty Four!  A few days previous I had, with a friend, visited St. Bridget's Well near Liscannor 

Old Postcards of St. Bridget's Well

When in Ireland, I've always found significant the minor little holy wells I've noted in past travels. They tug at my heart as I contemplate the many generations that have visited them over the countless centuries.  Sometimes these little spatters of water are very inconspicuously tucked into a hillside next to a natural spring dripping out of the rock. On a bike I can catch them with the corner of my eye. Ancient, holy places where people prayed, seeking help for life's challenges, sorrows and hopes.

After that, I dropped south past the Shannon Airport and made my way thru town to the 4-lane M18 and then the M7 highway that heads northeast to Dublin.  Once on these "Interstate" I zipped along for a while but eventually, I pulled off the highway and up a ramp and into a truck stop.  There, I pulled the car over to the far end of the parking lot and up to a curb that bordered a grass strip where I stopped.  For the next hour I methodically took all my items out of the car and repacked everything into my carryon bag or my suitcase which I would check in.  I carefully went thru the car including the backseat and truck and repacked all loose or stray items. I also made sure that all rubbish was out of the car and it was fairly clean and in good order so that I wouldn't have to worry about this at check-in..   

Organizing For the Flight Back Home

In Dublin, I searched for a gas station to top off the gas tank prior to drop off.  Lots of fun doing this during the rush hour!  I also found a TESCO and used a few of my extra Euros to buy some food for the next 12 hours of Airport dwelling...  Then on to the airport.  I pulled into the Hertz car return and dropped off the car after being scanned and the vehicle having been judged to be in good shape.  

Back to the Mother Ship!

This more or less ends my tale in Three Acts.  18 hours later, after entering the Dublin Terminal, I was back in Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota.  I had done my "Non-Tourist" mission of getting new, solid information and doing the informed exploration of Carlow and Clare Ireland from the family history perspective.  A new first for me after all my previous visits when I didn't have the leads to do these sorts of investigations.. 

My daughter Laurel picked me up at the curb at the airport.   I returned home to western Wisconsin tired but very satisfied. Grateful for all that I was able to collect so much of  I set out to find....    plus MORE.  

Thanks for reading!

Steve